Taruzake (樽酒) is cedar-aged sake. Using cedar in sake brewing and storage was once predominant. But it disappeared with the advent of stainless steel and enamel tanks and improvements in glass strength.
Taru sake was revived in the 1960s by a single brewery. And since, it slowly made a comeback as a specialty substyle.
How Does Taruzake Taste?
Cedar aging can impart spicy, cedary, resinous, floral, and slightly vegetal aromas and flavors. A mild bitter finish is also common.
The duration of aging and the quality of the cedar are significant variables. Some taruzake have intense flavors, while others are subtle.
Cedar casks are not toasted and don’t impart notes like toast, vanilla, cinnamon, caramel, chocolate, etc. These are characteristics sought-after in whisky and wine but not in sake.
Taru Sake Cold or Hot?
Taru sake is usually excellent chilled or warm. And it’s typically a reliable style even when hot (atsukan).
Cedar Aging Revived
Modernization improved sake brewing and storage materials, killing-off taru sake. But in 1964, Choryo Shuzo of Nara brought it back as a substyle. Today, many other breweries make cedar-aged sake.
Yoshino Taru
The cedar from the Yoshino area of Nara is considered the best for sake making.
Popular Brands of Taruzake
Choryo Yoshinosugi no Taru is the original taruzake and still the archetype of the style. Choryo Junmai Omachi Taru, Taruhei Gin Sumiyoshi, Kikumasamune Taru, Ichinokura Taru, and Ozeki Taru, and Hakushika Yoshino Taru Sake are other recommended brands.