Iwate 岩手 – the Heart of Nanbu
Iwate Prefecture 岩手県 lies in Tōhoku 南東北, northern Honshu. It is the main island’s largest prefecture, and Japan’s second-biggest, after Hokkaido. The climate of Iwate is cold temperate, with a lot of rainfall, and moderate snow in the winter.
Seishu was introduced in 1678. The Nanbu Toji guild originates from Iwate, and has spread out to become the largest guild in Japan. Originally, this move south was to look for work due to poor economic conditions in Tohoku. They now dominate the north and east of Japan. While most toji guilds are region-only and dying-out, the Nanbu guild is open and promotes membership across the country.
The Nanbu Toji style is to make fresh, clean, and complex sake. They excel at making ginjo-shu. Like many prefectures, Iwate 岩手 doesn’t have a true style of sake. However, Iwate sake can often be slightly sweet, savory, and grainy. The latter characteristic is due largely to the popularity of Miyama Nishiki.
Iwate 岩手 doesn’t grow much rice, especially sakamai. Miyama Nishiki, Ginginga, and Bizan Nishiki are the primary varieties. Others include Toyonishiki, Hitomebore, Akita Komachi, Sasanishiki, Koganehikari, Satohonami, Chiyohonami, Takanemidori, Iwatekko, Kakehashi. Beyond rice, Iwate 2 Yeast is locally developed and is popular from ginjo-shu.
Iwate’s terrain is rugged, sparsely developed, and has a low population density. The western border with Akita is runs along the highest point of the Ōu Mountains (奥羽山脈 Ōu-sanmyaku). The Kitakami Mountains 北上山地 lie to the east and extend to the coast and from southern Aomori to the Oshika Peninsula in Miyagi. In between, the Kitakami River 北上川 flows from north to south and is the fourth largest river in Japan. The Sanriku Coast (三陸海岸 sanriku kaigan) is located where the Kitakami Mountains reach the Pacific.
Iwate 岩手 Cuisine
The diverse topography of Iwate leads to an array of different cuisine in the prefecture. The Sanriku Coast is famed for its seafood. Its Uni production is the second highest in JP after Hokkaido. The primary season is early summer. Iwate Uni is highly prized for its creamy, sweet flavor. Squid and sea pineapples (hoya) are also popular, and peak in the summer. Hoya is considered a great pairing with sake. In the fall, Sanma become a focus of the local diet. Ezo Abalone, oysters, and crabs are best in winter. In the spring, Hanamigaki oysters, or “cherry-viewing oysters,” are three times as large as those caught in winter, and are highly prized. Famed dishes from the coast include Iso Ramen, Ichigoni, Harakomeshi (ikura don).
Historically, much of the Sanriku shellfish was gathered by Ama– traditional female divers that harvest uni, oysters, and hoya.
Iwate 岩手 is home to the famous Maesawa Wagyu and is also well known for the quality of its pork. Jingisukan (AKA: Genghis Khan), Kakko Dango, Hittsumi, Sansai (wild vegetables in Spring), and mushrooms are also local specialties. Especially in southern Iwate– Mochi is very popular. Also of note is Morioka’s big three noodles: Reimen, Jajamen, Wanko Soba.