The Apex of Ibaraki ginjo-shu from Huchu Homare

At a Glance: Heirloom-strain Watari Bune rice highlights this deeply fruity-floral sake. Watari Bune Junmai Daiginjo is remarkably versatile with food pairings.

Watari Bune 渡舟 Junmai Daiginjo sits at the top of the Tokutei meisho-shu (特定名称酒) quality scale, and along with Sudo Honke’s “Kakunko” Junmai Daiginjo, represents the apex of Ibaraki ginjo-shu. This sake is at times labeled “Ferry Boat” and “Liquid Gold” for export markets. 

Whatever you want to call Watari Bune– it brings big aromatics, big fruit, an exotic profile, and a solid structure. The texture is soft and expansive, with enough brightness to be refreshingly food-friendly. Like its excellent Junmai Ginjo cousin, Watari Bune Junmai Daiginjo is pasteurized only once in-bottle (namachozo) and unfiltered (muroka), giving provides a little extra intensity, vibrancy, and acidity.

A Namazake version of this sake exists, albeit in tiny supply. 

Pairing/ Service

Watari Bune Junmai Daiginjo is very good with ankimo, uni, oysters, ebi, kani, nigiri, sashimi, and maki. It’s also good with hamachi kama shioyaki, saba shioyaki, and chawanmushi.

This Junmai Daiginjo, like Watari Bune 55, shows best in a white wine glass. This highlights the aromatics and the wonderful structure. O-choko will tone-down the intensity and elevate the fruit. Guinomi are a nice middle ground with an authentic feel.

Tech & Production Info

SMV: +3  Acid: 1.4  Amino Acid: 1.0   

Rice: Wataribune milled to 35%  Yeast: #9

Junmai Daiginjo Namachozo Muroka

Shubo: Sokujo    gentle fune press   Aged: 3-10 mo. in tank

Joto Sake tech sheet

the Huchu Homare Brewery

Brewery: Huchu Homare Shuzo 府中誉 “Pride of Huchu”   Location: Ishioka, Ibaraki

EST: 1854      Official Site     US Importer– Joto Sake 

Huchu Homare (“Pride of Huchu”) is a well-respected brewery from Ibaraki. They were “mentored” by Sudo Honke to a degree, but today, are thoroughly their equal. The brewery’s “Huchu Rokui” spring water is medium-soft in hardness. Produces about 12K cases (12 bottles 720ml, 6 bottles 1800ml) annually. Style: “abundant but balanced fruitiness offset by light nuttiness and earthiness”. Their sake available in the US are typically Namachozo.

Huchu Homare famously revived the heirloom Watari Bune sakamai, and now makes several sake using the characterful grain. They work with several local farmers to grow the fickle rice– about 4ha in all. The brewery mills their rice in-house. This extra step means better control over the process and better results during fermentation.

With a lot of fertile soil, Ibaraki is dominated by agriculture. Ibaraki buckwheat (soba) is considered some of the best in Japan. Persimmon, grapes, pears, and rice are also major crops. The coast of Ibaraki is famous for monkfish (ankou)– in particular the liver (ankimo), and as ankou-nabe (stew). Using the indigenous Watari Bune grain, Huchu Homare’s sake is well-suited to pairing with these regional dishes. Huchu Homare also recommends Watari Bune with foie gras, pate, risotto, lamb, and pork.

informative Japan Times article   a solid Urban Sake report

Label / Kanji 

Watari Bune 渡舟  Huchu Homare 府中誉

Junmai Daiginjo 純米大吟

Namachozo 生貯藏  Muroka 無濾過

Ibaraki-ken 茨城県